If the suit fits...

In the hot summer months, law firms must tread carefully in determining appropriate professional attire, says Anne Mizzi


Just how far will lawyers bend the rules when it comes to fashion? Law firms planning to take a hard line against the short skirt and bare midriff this summer will be watching the case of solicitor Maxine Kelly, who is suing midlands firm Advance Legal for sex discrimination and victimisation following her dismissal from the firm.


She claims she was dismissed for objecting to a dress code that proscribed the 50-strong female workforce from wearing clothes that were ‘revealing’ or ‘suggestive’ while giving the men permission to loosen ties and pull up shirt-sleeves in hot weather.


Mr Kehoe, senior partner of Advance Legal, says: ‘We are quite relaxed about the tribunal. Our dress code is entirely reasonable and is the same as any other firm’s.’ The firm says, however, that this is irrelevant because it alleges she was dismissed for performance reasons, not because of the dress code.


The legal question will be decided by a Leicester employment tribunal, but the moral question remains – is there room for fashion in the legal workplace?


Mark Stephens, name partner at London firm Finers Stephens Innocent, says: ‘I think telling people what to wear and what not to wear is rude and it’s not necessary. People don’t choose their lawyers for what they wear.’


There is always one nonconformist who will turn up in the office wearing flip-flops when the partnership prefers them not to.


But of course, firms are keen that their front-line staff should project a professional image to people with whom they come into contact during the course of business.


Although most firms want their fee-earners to appear modern, there is always a line to be drawn and even the fiercest libertarians will pull colleagues to one side if it is clear that their appearance is offensive in the circumstances.


So far as the midriff exposure is concerned, Mark Humphries, head of advocacy at City firm Linklaters, says he is ‘blissfully unaware of such things happening here’.


‘Besides, I’m not sure that any of my partners would look their best with their stomachs exposed. I know I wouldn’t,’ he adds.


Certain trends are less likely to be acceptable in a solicitors’ firm, especially those that involve showing skin. Where does this leave fashion? Are lawyers doomed to live in a style limbo forever?


Mr Stephens argues that it is possible to dress fashionably in the office and at legal functions: ‘I have a gold brocade frock-coat,’ he says. ‘Lord Woolf told me he rather liked it.’


How far solicitors can go with such expressions of individuality will depend largely on their client bases. Mr Stephens advises creatives, including clothing designers, so he fits in despite his apparent nonconformism. Solicitors at criminal practice Tuckers are not expected to wear a suit when they get called out to a police station at 3am.


City solicitors’ clients pay megabucks for advice and expect their lawyers to wear a suit, quality shirt, tie and cuff-links. For dress-down days, the uniform is more relaxed – chinos, loafers and open-necked shirts.


This is what Anna Moore, image consultant at style clinic Susan McHugh Associates, describes as a preppy look. ‘It’s really hideous,’ she shivers.


Herbert Smith’s executive partner Iain Rothnie agrees, singling out the navy blazer for particular criticism: ‘That’s why I don’t do dress-down,’ he explains.


Dress-down is clearly a thorny issue. Pat Henshaw, a consultant at Image Matters, the corporate arm of style advisory group Colour Me Beautiful, argues that part of the problem with dress-down can be when a firm adopts dress-down policy – what she terms ‘business casual’ – without firm guidance of the dress code.


The whole dress-down movement originated in California where dot-com billionaires and their advisers started doing business in their shorts.


Like all great trends, dress-down inevitably swept across the US to land on our shores.


Ms Moore says that US firms conducted studies into dress-down in its early days.


‘There was conclusive evidence that people tend to achieve better results when they dress for business,’ she says.


Despite the evidence about the effect of attire on productivity, the argument that casual dress may lead to casual behaviour has not provoked law firms to tighten up their dress codes.


‘That’s a completely unconvincing argument,’ says Mr Rothnie. And Mr Sinclair agrees: ‘I do not believe that. People are happy when they are comfortable. Suits can be very uncomfortable – especially in the summer if you don’t work in an air-conditioned office.’


Most firms tolerate some degree of dress-down as long as lawyers dress appropriately when attending clients in person.


In any event, for most lawyers the novelty has worn off. Dressing down is just as tricky as dressing up and unless this is how you dress off duty, will also involve investing in a third wardrobe.


There may also be other factors contributing to the demise of dress-down.


The economic theory is that people smarten up their image during harsher economic times.


‘After a period of dress-down at the investment banks, there were reports that ambitious bankers had reverted to formal clothing,’ says Mr Humphries. He adds: ‘Rumours abounded that, if you were dressing down, you were not working on a client transaction. Thus the greeting to an informally attired colleague became “no deal?” instead of the more usual “good morning”. I’m not sure whether this is true but it sounds like it could well be.’


Ms Henshaw agrees that men’s fashion in general is becoming more formal. And with the suit making a comeback on the catwalks, it has never been so easy for solicitors to be professional and trendy at the same time.


Mr Stephens argues that the ‘baggy-arsed with braces’ look is out: ‘For men (this is a problem that women don’t have) it’s really difficult to find a tailor who will produce something cutting edge but also durable.’


But finding the right outfitter does not guarantee that you will be the only one in your pink pinstriped suit, as Mr Stephens found out when he discovered that a legal editor was also sporting the same pinstripe – and then bumped into Jonathan Ross wearing the same suit.


‘They said it would be the only one! Jonathan Ross told me they had said the same thing to him, although to be fair the cut was slightly different,’ he says.


Even the nattiest dresser must be cautious when attending an interview. The basic rule for interviews is to wear a suit.


Ed O’Brien, a recruitment consultant at Taylor Root, says most people who come to see his firm will be wearing one. He says looking smart not only projects a professional image at interview, but also shows that candidates are serious about their new job. However, he does acknowledge that there are some situations where this may not be possible. He says: ‘If you work at a firm operating a dress-down policy and the interview is at late notice, putting on a suit may not be practically possible, as it will be like saying: “I’m off to an interview”. If that’s the case, give your consultant a call so they can pre-warn the law firm.’


Ms Henshaw’s advice is to ‘be appropriately dressed for the environment. Think of who your client is and what the firm is trying to say’, she suggests.


Dark suits are a safe option and give the authority and ‘premium’ that City firms will be looking for.


‘Law firms are all about high-quality premium. That means you’ve got to be perceived to be at the top end of a quality market, advising on cutting-edge deals and disputes,’ says Mr Rothnie. ‘That means we are not modernists; we tend to be more conservative. That’s what clients expect.’


He warns: ‘If the pinstripe gets too wide you are in danger of looking like an investment banker, not a lawyer.’


Dressing obviously requires careful thought, and putting some care and attention into the detail of your wardrobe promote exactly the image that a lawyer is hoping to project.


It is possible to do this without resorting to the grey suit, argue the clothing professionals being brought in to answer tricky questions like whether braces are a knowing wink to a 1980s revival or are simply spivvy and out of touch. Lawyers can now obtain clothing advice at workshops offered by companies such as Colour Me Beautiful, or have wardrobe makeovers in the style of television fashionistas Trinny and Susannah.


In terms of basics, good grooming is essential for men and women alike. For women, part of essential grooming is to wear make-up, says Ms Henshaw. Her advice is supported by recent surveys, which show that women are more likely to get a job, pay rise or promotion if they wear make-up.


Ms Moore recommends using colour and going for the ‘Rene Russo’ look: ‘She looked very groomed in “The Thomas Crown Affair”,’ she says.


She says that the key look for Autumn/Winter 2004 is tweed: ‘For the ultimate in ladylike professionalism team a classic tweed skirt (or trouser) suit with a black polo neck or crisp white shirt and smart black court shoes,’ she suggests. ‘Metamorphose these looks into glamorous evening wear by adding a glittery sequin asymmetric skirt à la Marc Jacobs or chiffon blouse or dress under the jacket. Alternatively, for a dress-down look team the tweed jacket with favourite jeans and heels. ‘Accessories make all the difference, a beautiful pair of knee-high boots, fur-trim stole or chunky pearl choker will instantly add seasonal glamour to your courtroom look.’


Lawyers have not traditionally shown much interest in dress, as attempts to rid the judiciary of their wigs have proved. But with an increasing awareness of the value that image adds to a business, and with the spectre of legal challenges from women who feel discriminated against by dress codes, this is an area that will be given more thought by law firms in future.



Anne Mizzi is a freelance journalist

• Do not expose too much flesh (short skirts or hipster trousers)

• Do not show your underwear (it is a bit naff)



• Remember to groom yourself (clean suit, wash hair, brush teeth etc.)



• Dress appropriately for your environment and be aware of dress codes



• Dress for the job you want to be in (rather than the one you are in)



• Remember – it’s not expensive to be well groomed



• Wear clothes that fit



• Plan and budget for shopping and don’t be fooled by a bargain



• Invest in a good suit